TT 520 

1883 
Copy 1 



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FOR USING 



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Mor' ^ijgteni of M%% Cutting, 



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Perfect Fit for Ladies and Children Wittiout Alteration. 

The System is in Two Pieces Only : 

A SQUARE .*' CURVATURE. 

<1 AGENTS WANTED I> 

IN EVERY CITY AND TOWN IN THE UNITED STATES. 

.A.IDIDISESS 

SOLE PROPRIETORS.DEC ^P JSo« 

206 N. Seventh Street, 3x. LCf&TsH^O. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, by J. H. Fountain, in the 
. . office of Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. . „ 



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PREFACE 



Persons who have given the subject of garment cutting any thought, 
will agree with me in saying that thus far there has been the greatest 
opportunities for improvements in this branch of science than in any 
other. To be sure there have been a great many "charts" and 
" models " and a few so-called systems of dress cutting invented, and 
a great deal has been said upon the subject ; but in the majority of 
cases it has been a very important subject badly treated, and the public 
have been imposed upon by unskilled, and we might say many of them 
unscrupulous, persons, merely for their own pecuniary interest, and 
not for the advancement and perfection of the art. 

In fact garment cutting is a science more than an art, and should 
be treated as such upon scientific and mechanical principles, and a 
system of dress cutting without these principles for its base is worth- 
less and not worthy of support. I am happy now after years of 
experience as a pracrical dress cutter, and by the aid of a mechanical 
brain constantly employed during these years of experience, to present 
to the public a system based upon scientific principles, and worthy the 
name. It has been my greatest object during these years of study to 
perfect a system which would rival all competition and stand before 
the world without criticism. And those who will take the trouble to 
investigate it cannot fail to see that my hopes have been realized. 

My system is not merel) the products of my experience as a dress 
cutter, but the result of years of mental labor. 

The greatest beauty of a lady or child's dress is the fit; no matter 
how costly the material, if it does not fit perfectly, the material is 
robbed of its beauty and the form of its gracefulness. 

" For art and skill we must combine 
To grace and beautify the human form divine." 

And now in placing my system before the people, I only ask that 
they investigate it and prove to their own minds the merits of the 
" Fountain System." 

Very respectfully, 

St. Louis, Nov. 22, 1883. J. H. FOUNTAIN. 



TAKING MEASURE. 



You can not be too careful, as a great deal depends on the 
measure. You can never cut dresses with perfect results, until you 
can take measure correctly, which is very easily done, but you must 
not get in a hurry while taking measure, we do good work only'when 
we are careful. Have the person you are measuring to stand in an 
easy natural position or you cannot take a correct measure. Before 
commencing to take the measure, write the words " Bust," "Waist," 
" Neck," and so on in rotatation as measures are taken. 

1. First with tape line measure around the fullest part of bust, 
take up the slack, hold line between thumb and finger at the back 
while the person being measured draws the line all they can by expand- 
ing their lungs. 

2. Take "Waist Measure'" tight. 

3. Take "Neck Measure" smoothly above the collar. 

4. Take "Arm's Eye Measure" very tight just below the point 
of Shoulder. If taken correctly it will always be from a half to one 
inch and a half smaller than the neck. 

5. Take "Shoulder Measure" from a little back of the full part 
of neck to point of shoulder. A medium shoulder is 6 inches. 

6. Tie a cord around the Waist tight, and push it down as low as 
it will go, except in the front which will naturally go to the right place. 

7. Take "Back Measure" from the prominent bone in back of 
neck to bottom of cord. 

8. Take "Front Measure" from prominent bone in back of 
neck around to cord in front. 

9. Take "Under Arm Measure" from under arm down to cord, 
hold tape between thumb and finger and keep hand on a level while 
pushing tape up nnder the arm. 

10. Take "Hip Measure" around the hips six inches below 
waist cord a little tighter than you wish skirt to fit. 

11. Take "Front Skirt Measure" from waist cord down the 
length you wish skirt. 

12. Take "Back Skirt Measure" from waist cord down the 
length you wish skirt in back. 

13. Take "Arm to Elbow Measure" from point of shoulder to 
elbow while arm is bent to front waist. 

14. With arm still in this position, take "Arm Measure" from 
point of shoulder to wrist, or length you wish sleeve. 

15. Take "Elbow Measure" as you wish sleeve to fit at elbow. 

16. Take "Hand Measure" closely around largest part of hand. 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 




Bust 36 

Waist 23 

Neck 12 

Arm's Eye. .. 11 

Shoulder 6 

Back 15| 

Front 18^ 

Under Arm ... 8 

Hip 41 

Arm to Elbow 13 

Arm 22i 

Elbow 11 

Hand 8 

Front Skirt.... 38 
Back Skirt.... 39 



Beginners should 
by all means learn 
to draft by this 



measure. 



DRAFTING BACK.— Cut No. I. 



1. Draw line No. 1 one and a half inches from edge of paper 
next to you. 

2. Draw line 2 from the top of line 1 square across paper. 

3. Make dot A, on line 1, four and one-half inches below line 2. 

4. Draw line 3 from dot A square across paper. 

5. Make dot B, on line 1, the " Back Measure" below line 2. 

6. With small end up, draw line 4 from dot B square accoss 
paper. 

7. Make dot C, on line 4, one-fourth of an inch from dot B. 

8. Make dot D, on line 4, one inch and a half from dot B. 

1). Make dot E, on line 4, two and one-fourth inches from dot B. 

10. Make dot F, on line 4, according to "Waist Measure," using 
back waist figure. (When " Waist Measure" is less than twenty-two 
make dot F at twenty-two.) 

11. Make dot G, on line 1, the ''Under Arm Measure" above 
dot B. 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 



12. Draw line 5 from dot G square across paper. 

13. Place the curved edge on line 5, small end from you, and 
make dot H, on line 5, according to •' Bust Measure," using back bust 
figure. 

14. Draw line 6 from line 3 across dot H to dot F. 

15. With Curvature^ small end from you, place the T point at the 
junction of lines 1 and 2, and the "Neck Measure," in back neck 
figure, on line 2, then make dot J on line 2 according to neck measure. 

16. Place the U point at dot J, and the shoulder measure in back 
shoulder guide figures on line 3, then draw line 7 from dot J to shoul- 
der measure. 

17. Place the W point at the lowest end of line 7, and the 
"Arm's Eye Measure" in back Arm Shape figures on line 6, then draw 
line 8 from the lowest end of line 7 to line 6. 




DRAFTING BACK. —Cut No. 2. 

1. With system make dot K in center of line 8. 

2. Place the K point at dot K, and draw curved line 9 from dot 
K to dot D. 

3. Place the F point at the junction of lines 5 and 9, and draw 
curved line 10 to dot E. (Should you wish seam to run to shoulder, 
make dot K in center of line 7", and draw lines 9 and 10 straight.) 

4. Draw line 11 from dot G to dot C. 

5. Make dot L six inches below dot B, and three-fourths of an 
inch outside of line 1. 

6. Make dot M two inches inside of dot L. 

7. Make dot N two and a half inches inside of dot L. 

8. Make dot O one inch farther from dot L than dot F is from 
dot B. 

9. Place the E point at dot F, and draw curved line 12 from 
dot F across dot O. 

10. Draw line 13 from dot D across dot N. 

11. Draw line 14 from dot E across dot M. 

12. Draw line 15 from dot C across dot L. 



FOUNTAIN S TAILOR SYSTEM OF DRESS CUTTING. 




DRAFTING FRONT.— Cut No. 3. 



1. Draw line No. 1 one inch and a-half from edge of paper 
next to you. 

2. Draw line 2 from the top of line 1 square across paper. 

3. Make dot A on line 2 according to " Neck Measure," using 
small "Neck Figure " on straight side of system. 

4. Make dot B on line 1 three inches below line 2. 

5. Draw line 3 from dot B square across the paper. 

6. With " Curvatures," place the X point at dot A, and the 
" Neck Measure " in front neck figure on line 1, and draw line 4 from 
dot A to line 1. 

7. Place the V point at dot A, and the "Shoulder Measure" 
in front shoulder guide figure on line 3,' and draw line 5 from dot A 
to " Shoulder Measure." 

8. Make dot C one half of "Arm's Eye Measure " below the 
lowest end of line 5. 

9. Draw line 6 from line 1 square across dot C. 

10. Make dot D on line 6 according to "Bust Measure," using 
front bust figures. 

11. Make dot E on line 1, the " Under Arm Measure," below 
line 6. 

12. Draw line 7 from dot E square across paper. 

13. Make dot F on line 7 according to " Bust Measure," using 
front bust figures. 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 



14. Make dot G one-fourth of an inch outside of dot F. 

15. With small end down and square corner at dot G, make dot 
H on line 7 according to "Arm's Eye Measure," using arm's eye 
figures. 

16. Place the square corner at dot D, and make dot I on line 6 in 
same manner. 

17. Draw line 8 from line 3 across dot D and G full length of 
system. 

18. Draw line 9 from dot I across dot H full length of system. 

19. Make dot J on line 9, one-fourth of an inch below dot I. 

20. Make dot K on line 9, two inches and a half below dot I. 

21. Measure line 6 in back drafting from dot F up to line 8. Now 
make dot L the same distance above dot G on line 8 in front drafting. 

22. Make dot M on line 1, the " Front Measure " below dot A. 

23. With "Curvatures," small end down, place the "Neck Meas- 
ure" in back neck figure at dot M, and make dot N on line 1 at the T 
point. 

24. With small end up, place the " Arm's Eye Measure" in front 
arm shape at dot J, and draw line 10 from dot L to dot J, and up to 
the lowest end of line 5. The "Arm's Eye Measure" must be exactly 
at dot J while drawing line 10. 

25. Make dot O on line 1, three inches and a half below line 6. 

26. Draw line 11 from dot O to dot K. 

27. Draw line 12 from dot N to dot H. 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 




DRAFTING FRONT.— Cut No. 4. 



1. Measure from dot C to dot D and from dot E to dot F in 
back drafting. Now measure from dot G in front drafting, and make 
dot P on line 7 just one-half of "Waist Measure." The distance 
from dot P to dot E is the amount for three darts. 

2. Now refer to dot calculation and find the amount for darts in 
first column, the amount opposite in second column is the amount for 
front dart, the amount opposite in third column is for the middle dart, 
and the amount opposite in fourth column is for back dart. 

3. Make dot Q on line 12 one inch and three-fourths from dot N. 

4. Make dot R on line 12 just the size of front dart from dot Q. 

5. Make dot S half way between dots Q and R. 

6. Make dot T three-fourths of an inch from dot R. 

7. Make dot U just the size of middle dart from dot T. 

8. Make dot V half way between dots T and U. 

9. Draw line 13 from line 11 perfectly square down across dot V. 
Square line 13 by line 6. 

10. Draw line 14 in same manner across dot S. 

11. With " Curvatures " place the Y point at the junction of lines 
11 and 13, and draw curved line 15 to dot U. 

12. Place the Y point at the junction of lines 11 and 14, and draw 
curved line 16 to dot R. 

13. Turn "Curvatures" over, face down, and the Y point at the 
same junction, and draw line 17 to dot Q. 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 9 

14. Place the Y point at the junction of lines 11 and 13, and draw 
line 18 to dot T. 

15. Make a dot on line 13 nine inches below dot V, and draw lines 
19 and 20 straight down to the dot just made. 

16. Make a dot on line 14, nine inches below dot S, and draw 
lines 21 and 22 straight to dot just made. 

17. Make dot W on line 7, one-half inch outside of dot H. 

18. Draw line 23 from dot J to dot W. 

19. Make dot X six inches below dot H, and three-fourths of an 
inch from line 9 towards you. 

20. Make dot Y two inches and a half outside of dot X. 

21. Place the A point at dot H, and draw curved line 24 from dot 
H across dot Y. 

22. Turn system over, face down, the A point at dot W, and 
draw curved line 25 from dot W acioss dot X. 

23. Make dot Z on line 1, six inches below dot N. 

24. Make dot AA just one-half of "Hip Measure." The way 
to get the location for dot AA, — measure skirt of back drafting from 
dot L to dot N, and from dot M to dot O ; then from dot Z to dot Y 
in front drafting, leaving out the two front darts ; then from dot X 
straight out, and make dot A A just one-half of " Hip Measure." Dot 
AA must never be less than one-half inch outside of line 8, but more, 
if "Hip Measure" requires it. 

25. Place E pointat dot G, and draw line 26 across dot AA. 

26. Make dotBB half-inch outside of line 1, two inches above dot O. 

27. Draw line 27 from the junction of lines 1 and 4, to dot BB. 

28. Draw line 28 from dot BB to dot N. 

29. Make dot CC half inch outside of dot Z. 

30. Make dot DD three-fourths of an inch outside of line 1, and 
fifteen inches below dot N. 

31. Draw line 29 from dot N across dot CC and dot DD. 

TRACING FRONT. 

1. Place lining double on table or Tracing Board, then with front 
drafting on lining fasten both secure to table with tacks. 

2. Now trace line 12, or waist line, from line 1 to dot H. 

3. Then up lines 9, 10, and 5, and up lines 28, 27, and 4. 

4. In tracing darts, trace up lines 13, 14, 15, and 16, this will be 
one-half of dart. 

5. Now trace down from waist, lines 19, 21, 24, 29, and 30, 

6. Remove drafting and cut out the front, allowing seams every- 
where except in neck and arm-hole. 

7. For " Under Arm Gore," replace drafting on lining, as in 
front. 



10 fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 

8. Trace waist line from dot W to dot G. 

9. Then up lines 8 and 23 to line 10, and line 10 from dot J to 
dot L. 

10. Then trace down from waist, lines 25 and 26, and line 31. 

11. Remove drafting, and cut out under arm gore, allowing seams 
everywhere except at arm-hole. 



TRACING BACK. 

1. Place lining and drafting on table as in tracing front. 

2. Trace line 4 from dot C to dot D ; from line 4 up you trace 
lines 11,1 and 2 from line 1 to dot J. 

3. Then up line 9 to dot K and line 8, from dot K to line 7, and 
line 7 to dot J. 

4. From line 4 down, trace lines 13, 15 and 16. 

5. Remove drafting and cut out back, allowing seams everywhere 
excepting at neck and arm-hole. 

6. For " Side Back," replace drafting, and trace line 4 from 
dot E to dot F. 

7. Trace up line 6 to line 8, and line 10 to dot K, and line 8 from 
line 6 to dot K. 

8. From waist down, trace lines 12, 14 and 17. 

9. Remove drafting and cut out side form, allowing seam every- 
where except at arm-hole. 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 11 



DRAFTING FOR MISSES. 

Draft the same as for adults, with the following exceptions : 

1. Make dot E one half inch from dot D in " Back " drafting. 

2. When " Front" drafting is done, place the E points at dot X, 
with small end down, and draw a line from dot W to dot X, 

3. Turn the system over and draw a line from dot H to dot Y. 

4. If open in " Back," one-half inch must be allowed in " Back," 
outside of lines 1, 11 and 15 ; and line 4, in "Front," must be drawn to 
one " Measure " less than " Neck Measure." 



DRAFTING YOKES. 

Draft the same as for plain waist. For a plain square yoke, you 
have it from line 6, in " Front," and line 3, in " Back," If you wish 
yoke deeper, draw lines square across drafting the depth you desire 
yoke. 

If you desire pointed or curved yoke, make a dot at the point you 
want yoke to run in to arm hole, and another on line 27 the depth you 
wish yoke to come, and draw a straight or curved line from one dot to 
the other. 

In tracing, trace yoke first, then the waist part below yoke, allow- 
ing seam outside of tracing, where yoke and waist join. If you wish 
goods plaited into yoke, plait it before tracing, if for pointed or curved 
yoke. 



12 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 




DRAFTING SLEEVE.— Cut No. 5. 



1. Draw line 1 half inch from edge of paper. 

2. Draw line 2 from top of line 1 square across paper. 

3. Make clot A, on line 2, half inch less than half of "Arm's 
Eye Measure" from line 1. 

4. Make dot B, on line 1, one inch and a fourth below line 2. 

5. Draw line 3, from dot B, square across paper. 

6. Make dot C, on line 3, half of "Arm's Eye Measure" from 
dot B. 

7. Make dot D, on line 3, two inches and a half outside of dot C. 

8. Turn small end toward you and place the G point at dot D, 
and draw line 4 to dot A. 

9. Place the G point at dot A and the figure that represents 
"Arm's Eye Measure " in same curve on line 1, and draw line 4 

to line 1. 

10. Place the H point at the junction of lines 1 and 4, and draw 

line 5 to dot C. 

11. Make dot E on line 1, "Arm to Elbow Measure," below 
line 2. 

12. Draw line 6 from dot E square across paper. 

13. Make dot F, on line 6, two inches from dot E. 

14. Make dot G, on line 6, one inch less than half of "Elbow 
Measure" from dot F. 

15. Make dot H two inches outside of dot G. 

16. Place the C point at the junction of lines 1 and 5, and draw 
line 7 to dot F. 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 13 

17. Turn system over and place the C point at dot D, and draw 
line 8 from dot D to dot H. 

18. Place the C point at dot C, and draw line 9 to dot G. 

19. Make dot J on line 1, " Arm Measure," below line 2. 

20. Draw line 10 from dot J square across paper. 

21. Make dot K on line 10 half inch more than half of " Hand 
Measure " from dot J. 

22. Make dot L on line 10, one inch and three-fourths inside of 
dotK. 

23. Make dot M on line 1, one inch and a half above dot J. 

24. Draw line 11 from dot L to dot M. 

25. Draw line 12 from dot K to dot M. 

26. Place the C point at dot F, and draw line 13 to dot M. 

27. Place the E point at dot G, and draw line 14 to dot L. 

28. Place the E point at dot H, and draw line 15 to dot K. 



DRAFTING LARGE SIZE SLEEVES. 

1. If " Arm's Eye Measure " is 14 inches or more, dot B should 
be made one inch and a half below line 2. 

2. If " Arm Measure " is 23 inches or more, dot F should be 
made two inches and a fourth from dot E. 



14 fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 



DRAFTING SLEEVE FOR CHILDREN. 

Draft the same as for adults, with the following exceptions : 

1. Make dot B on line 1, one inch below line 2. 

2. Make dot D one inch and a half outside of dot C. 

3. Make dot F one inch from dot E. 

4. Make dot G half inch less than half of "Elbow Measure" 
from dot F. 

5. Make dot H one inch outside of dot G. 

6. Make dot K one-fourth inch more than half of " Hand Meas- 
ure " from dot J. 

7. Make dot L one inch inside of dot K. 



TRACING SLEEVE. 

1. Fasten your drafting on lining, as for tracing waist. 

2. Now trace line 6 from dot F to dot H. 

3. Trace lines 7 and 8 up to line 4. 

4. Then line 4 from line 7 to dot D. 

5. And mark where dot A comes on lining with tracing wheel. 

6. Now trace down lines 13 and 15 to line 12, and line 12 from 
dot M to dot K. 

7. Remove drafting and cut this the upper side of sleeve out, 
allow same everywhere. 

8. Replace drafting and trace line 6 from dot F to dot G, then 
up lines 7 and 9 to line 5. 

9. Trace line 5 from line 1 to dot C. 

10. Trace down line 13 to dot M, and line 14 to dot L. 

11. Trace line 11 from dot M to dot L. 

12. Remove drafting and cut out under sleeve, allow seams as for 
upper Sleeve. 



FOUNTAIN S TAILOR SYSTEM OF DRESS CUTTING. 



15 




DRAFTING SKIRT FRONT.— Cut No. 6. 



In drafting skirts, draft on lining double. Cut 6 represents the 
front gore, and should be drafted from the fold of lining. 
1. Draw line 1 one inch from top of lining square. 

Make dot A on line 1 one inch and a half from edge of 



2. 
lining. 

3. 

4. 

5. 
lining. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 



Make dot B two inches and a fourth from edge of lining. 

Make dot C three inches from edge of lining. 

Make dot D one-fourth of "Waist Measure" from edge of 

Make dot E one-half inch inside of dot D. 

Make dot F on edge of lining six inches below line 1. 

Draw line 2 from dot F square across lining. 

Make dot G on line 2 one inch and a fourth further from edge 



of lining than dot D. 

10. Draw line 3 from dot B square down to line 2. 

11. Place the E point at dot E, and draw line 4 to dot G. 

12. Draw line 5 in same manner from dot A. 

13. Turn system over, and draw line 6 in same manner from dot C. 

14. Make dot H on edge of lining, one-fourth inch below line 1. 

15. Place the F point at dot H, and draw line 7 to dot E. 

16. Draw line 8 from dot D, straight across dot G, away down. 

17. Make dot J on edge of lining, " Skirt Measure," below 
dot H. 

18. Make dot K on line 8 half-inch more than " Skirt Measure" 
below dot D. 

19. Place the E point at dot K and draw line 9 to dot J. 

20. Trace line 7 to dot E, down line 4 and 8 and the dart. 



16 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 




DRAFTING SIDE GORE OF SKIRT —Gut No. 7. 

1. Draw line 1 same as in front. 

2. Make dot A on line 1, one inch more than one-fourth of 
"Waist Measure " from edge of lining. 

3. Make dot B on line 1 half-way between edge of lining and 
dot A. 

4. Make dot C one inch outside of dot B. 

5. Make dot D one inch inside of dot B. 

6. Make dot E on line 1 one-half inch from edge 'of lining. 

7. Make dot F on edge of lining six inches below line 1. 

8. Draw line 2 from dot F square across lining. 

9. Make dot G on line 2 one inch and a fouith further from edge 
of lining than dot A. 

10. Draw line 3 from dot B square down to line 2. 

11. Place the E point at dot D, and draw line 4 to line 2. 

12. Turn the system over, place the E point at dot C, and draw 
line 5 to line 2. 

13. Draw line 6 from dot E in same manner to dot F. 

14. Draw line 7 from top of lining across dots A and G, away 



down. 
15 
16 
17 



Make dot H on line 7 one-fourth of an inch above dot A. 
Place the F point at dot H and draw line 8 to dot C. 
Make dot J on edge of lining half inch more than "Skirt 
Measure " below line 1. 

18. Make dot K on line 7 half inch more than "Skirt Measure" 
below dot H. 

19. Place the E point at dot K and draw line 9 to dot J. 

20. Trace the dart and outlines as in front, always allowing seam 
outside your tracing. 

21. For "Back Skirt" a plain width from 25 to 35 inches wide 
should be added. This gives a good width for walking length, if more 
fullness is desired, add more plain goods in back. 



FOUNTAIN S TAILOR SYSTEM OF DRESS CUTTING. 



17 




DRAFTING FOR CHILDREN— Back.— Cut No. 8. 



1. Draft the same as in drafting cut 1, until you have drawn 
line 4. 

2. Make dot C on line 4, four inches from dot B. 

3. Make dot D on line 3 according- to " Bust Measure," using 
back bust figures. 

4. Draw line o as shown in cut. 

5. With "Curvatures" make dot E on line 2 according to 
"Neck Measure.';* 

6. Draw lines 6 and 7 same as in cut No. 1. 

7. Place the System on line 2, and draw line 2 half inch toward 
you. 

8. Make dot F half inch outside of line 1 and half inch below 
dot A. 

9. Draw line 8 from the end of line 2 to dot F, — draw line 9 
from dot F to dot B. 

10. Make dot G six inches below dot B and one inch outside of 
line 1. 

11. Make dot H six inches inside of dot G. 

12. Draw line 10 from dot B across dot G. 

13. Place the E point at dot C, and draw line J 1 across dot H. 

14. Make dot J on line 11, the " Skirt Measure " below dot C. 

15. Make dot K on line 10, the " Skirt Measure" below dot B. 
IG. Draw line 12 from dot J to dot K. 



18 



FOUNTAIN S TAILOR SYSTEM OF DRESS CUTTING. 




DRAFTING FOR CHILDREN— Front.— Cut No. 9. 



1. Draft the same as in cut 3, until you have drawn line 7, except 
line 4, which, if dress is open in back, must always be drawn to one 
figure less than "Neck Measure." 

2. Make dot F on line 7, just one-half of " Waist Measure." 

3. If you desire a dart make dot G on line 7, three inches inside 
of dot F ; this will give you one mch for dart. If child is small and no 
dart desired, make dot G four inches inside of dot F. 

4. Draw line 8 square down from dot G. 

5. Make dot H on line 8, six inches below dot G. 

6. If there is to be a dart, make dot J one inch outside of dot H. 
If no dart, one inch and a half. 

7. Place the E point at dot G, and draw line 9 across dot J. 

8. Draw line 10 from line 3 across dot D to dot G. 
Make dot K on line 10, the same way you make dot L in Cut 



9. 

No. 3. 

10. 

11. 



Make dot L on line 6, according to "Arm's Eye Measure." 
Make dot M one-fourth inch below dot L, and draw line 11 
same as line 10 in Cut No. 3. 

12. Make dot N on line 1, the " Skirt Measure " below dot E. 

13. Make dot O on line 9, the " Skirt Measure " below dot G. 

14. Draw line 12 from dot O to dot N. 

15. If you have made calculations for dart of one inch, take it all 
out in one dart on line 7, one inch and a half from dot E. Dart should 
be 9 inches long, four inches above and five inches below line 7, and 
drawn the same as in Cut 4. 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 19 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR BASTING. 

Most ladies believe there is an art in basting — and so there is — 
but it is very simple, and any lady follow^ing our instructions strictly 
will soon find herself proficient in the art. 

First, baste your lining on goods, being careful to hold your lining 
loosely on goods, lengthwise ; at same time, care should be used not 
to get lining loose on goods crosswise. In basting darts, run basting 
full length of lines 13 and 14 — this is center of dart, and holds lining 
to goods — fold darts on centre, and baste or stitch from traced side. 
This gives your dart full size. 

In basting the different pieces of "Waist" together, join them 
evenly at waist line, and baste all seams up from waist, then down, 
keeping the tracings even on both sides. In basting "Back" and 
" Front " together, and the side forms in " Back," hold " Back" next to 
you ; also, in basting shoulder seams, never allow one side of seam to run 
out ahead of the other, for pieces that join in seam are of equal length, 
and must not be cut off. 

In setting sleeve in garment, place the highest part of sleeve head — 
which should be marked when tracing — (See instructions for tracing 
sleeve, clause 5,) at shoulder seam. Sleeve should be held quite full 
over the shoulder. 



TO CARRY DOWN SKIRT. 

In carrying down skirt for Princess dress or wrappers run line 1 
down the "Front Skirt Measure ' below dot N, and line 24 one 
half inches longer than " Front Skirt Measure." Now with system 
small end from you place the E point at the dot on line 24 and di"aw 
line 30 to the dot on line 1. For under-arm gore run lines 25 and 26 
down the same length of line 24, and draw line 31 same as line 30. 

In back run line 12 down the same as line 26 in front. Now run 
line 15 (this is center of back) down the length of "Back Skirt 
Measure " below dot C, then run lines 13 and 14 down to graduate the 
difference between the length of lines 12 and 15. 

Extra fullness should be allowed in back skirt by throwing lines 
12, 13, 14 and 15 out or allow plaits in center and side back seams. 

As to style, ladies must consult the fashion books. 



20 fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 



Bust r 36 37 

Waist 23 25 

Neck 12 13 

Arm's Eye 11 12 

Shoulder 6 6 

Back 153 15| 

Front 181 18^ 

Under Arm 8 7| 

Hip 41 43 

Arm to Elbow 13 13 

Arm 22J 23 

Elbow 11 12 

Hand 8 9 

CLOSE FITTING CLOAKS. 

1. Before commencing to draft a Cloak, increase and deci'ease 
your measure, as the above measure shows, then draft to the larger 
measure, the same as Cut No. 2 and 4 are drafted. If you have two 
inches and a half, or less, for darts, take it all out in two darts, half 
inch in " Back Dart " and remainder in " Front Dart," If more than 
two inches and a half, take it out according to dart calculation, when 
but one dart ; make dot Q from two to two inches and a half from dot 
N, according to size of waist. 

DOUBLE BREASTED GARMENTS— Front. 

1. Draw line 1 three inches from edge of paper, then draft the 
same as instructions for Cut No. 4, until you have drawn line 26. 

2. Make a dot outside of dot B, just half the amount you want 
garment to lap. 

3. Make another dot the same distance outside of dot N, 

4. Draw line 32 across the two dots just made. 

5. Make dot BB half inch outside of line 32 and two inches above 
dotO. 

6. Continue line 4 out to line 32, line 4 may be drawn square or 
inclined up. 

7. Draw lines 27, 28 and 29 outside of line 32, as in Cut No. 4. 

8. Lines 27, 28 and 29 should be omitted for children. 

UNDERARM DART. 

To run under-arm seam out below waist as a dart: After basting 
front lining on goods, as usual, place " Side Front" back of the front 
just far enough for tracings to come together five inches below waist 
line, and be sure to keep the waist lines even. 

If dress is not lined, trace out a pattern of the " Side Front" with 
five inch skirt, then place front drafting on goods and place "Side 
Front Patterns " the same as with lining. 



fountain's tailor system OP' DRESS CUTTING. 21 



LOOSE-FITTING CLOAKS. 

Add three inches to " Waist Measure" instead of two, and draft 
the same as for close-fitting cloaks. 



CLOAKS WITHOUT DART. 

Draft the same as for close-fitting cloaks, except you make dot G 
in front one-half inch inside of dot M- r' 



CHILDREN'S CLOAKS. 

Add to the "Measures" the same as for adults. Then draft as 
per instructions for Cut No. 8, with the following exceptions: 

1. Make dot C four inches and a half inside of dot B. 

2. Make dot L half inch inside of dot B. 

3. Make dot F on line 1, half inch below dot A. 

4. Make dot G half inch outside of line 1, and six inches below 
dot B, line 8 is omitted. 

5. Draw line 9 from dot F to dot L. 

6. Draw line 10 from dot L across dot G. 

7. This takes off the lap in the back, and must be done for all 
" Open Front Garments" that are drafted by Cut No. 8. 

8. For " Double Breasts " see instructions for " Double Breasted 
Garments." 



LOOSE-FITTING GARMENTS. 

Add to " Waist Measure " one or one and a half inches. Then 
draft the same as in Cuts No. 2 and No. 4. 



SACQUES. 

If sack is for an over garment, draft just the same as for loose- 
fitting cloak ; if not an over garment, draft the same as loose-fitting 
garynents. 



22 fountain's taii.or system of dkess cutting 



TO PERSONS OUT OF EMPLOYMENT, 



EITHER LADIES OR GENTLEMEN. 



We will be glad to give you employment either at your homes or 
as traveling agents. Our inducements to agents are liberal and profits 
good, for we believe that if agents do the work they should have the 
profits of their labor. 

The "Fountain System" is undoubtedly the best system of dress 
cutting ever invented, and is a system which should go into every well 
regulated household. In handling an article of so great a necessity 
as this, agents have the advantage over those worrying their lives out 
trying to sell a trivial article which no one can see advantages in 
buying ; but with a good system of dress cutting every lady will agree 
at once it is something she ought to possess, and it only remains for 
you to prove its merits. We speak from years of experience, and in 
handling "The Fountain Tailor System" this is easily done, for it 
speaks and recommends itself. It is so perfect in all its principles and 
correct in all its teachings that persons do not have to be skilled or 
practical to use it correctly with perfect results. 

If you are in want of employment, write us at once, and get our 
price list and terms to agents. 

Address, J. H. FOUNTAIN & CO,, 

206 North Seventh Street, 

ST. LOUIS, MO. 



fountain's tailor system of dress cutting. 23 



ADVICE AND INSTRUCTIONS TO AGENTS, 



Agents should give the bushiess their entire attention, study to 
please and give perfect satisfaction to their patrons. In selling an 
article, on which instructions are to be given, agents should study 
to improve, and never feel satisfied with themselves until they become 
masters of their profession, for we cannot teach to others that which 
we do not know ourselves. Be courteous, deal honestly, "Do unto 
others as you would they should do unto you," and you will succeed. 
Agents, for many reasons, should always teach their pupils to draft 
from the printed measure. One reason is because the draftings made 
to this measure will be exactly like Cuts No. 2 and No. 4, and will not 
confuse ; and when pupil can draft to this measure perfectly, take her 
measure and have her draft to this, her own measure, by herself — for a 
test. Inspect her drafting. If correct, show her how to trace and 
baste. 

In ordering goods it is best to accompany order with money. In 
so doing, you will save charges on return of money for goods sent C. 
O. D. In ordering goods C. O. D. at least $1.00 must accompany the 
order. 

In writing to us please sign your name and address plainly. If 
lady, sign " Miss" or " Mrs." as the case may be. 



RETAIL PRICE LIST. 

One system complete, with instruction book $5 00 

One system complete, with instruction book and lessons 8 00 

One tracing wheel, " best steel " 50 

One tape measure, •' double sateen " .50 

One tape ineasure, " linen " 10 

Drafting paper, "manilla," per quire 25 

Any of the above articles (except paper) sent, post-paid, to any 
address on receipt of price. Money may be sent b}- Post-Office Order, 
Reofistered Letter or Draft. 



TO MOTHERS. 



The subject of Garment Cutting is a very important one, and one 
which all ladies, especially mothers, should feel greatly interested in. 

We believe it is the duty of every mother to see that her daughters 
understand some good system of dress cutting, and sufficiently 
educated in this branch of their domestic education as to enable them 
to at least superintend, if not to cut and make their own and their 
children's dresses. Mothers cannot but be proud of the daughter who 
can cut and make her own clothing, and they will certainly agree with 
me, that they will make better wives and mothers by having this 
knowledge, besides, in many cases, it might prove to be a great bless- 
ing, for how many poor girls are thrown out upon this cold world with- 
out a mother's counsel and protection, with nothing but their own re- 
sources to depend upon for support.? Then fortunate and happy is 
she who has some accomplishment and knowledge which she can turn 
to good account — and skilled dress cuttei's are always in demand, 
and at all times command good wages. Then what better trade, or 
means of self-support can a mother give her daughter? 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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